Wednesday, December 13, 2017

THE FEATHER IN DISGUISE






 This feather is indeed in disguise.
Behind the feathered mask lays the
CHEVRON  STITCH
Yes folks the chevron stitch is the makings of this fine feathered feather.
 And the back bone/spine of the feather is a triple crochet that is made 2 rows below the row you are working on and is worked into the front post of that stitch, giving the over all effect of the rachis part of the feather. There is just 1 more little trick in the making of this crochet feather and that is by the time you get to the second row of dc's you work them into the back loop of the dc st. Oh yeah, of course there is the shaping of the tip of the feather, but that's just increasing less st's over a few rows and your done.
Lets make this crocheted feather together by following some simple picture tutorials.
Every picture tells a story right?
These are almost the same as a story, but in the form of an easy to follow along picture pattern!

 The fun begins with chains and slip st's
Next we begin the chevron pattern, we need an extra ch 3, that counts as the 1st dc of this row, then increase in the 4th ch from the hook by adding 2 more dc's, make 3 dc's over the next 3 ch's, then dc 3 ch's together for the decrease.
The first part of the spine will be just a dc into the top sl st, when you have more rows you'll do the front post triple crochet instead.
The you basically repeat what you just did in the reverse order for this side.
Finish off this row with the increase of 3 dc's into the last ch, turn.
EVERY STITCH MADE (apart from the center st) IS NOW
WORKED INTO THE BACK LOOPS ONLY.
Chain up 3 and work an increase of 2 dc's into the 1st dc of this row. 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc's, then the decrease again, dc dec the next 3 st's together.
Now for our first front post triple crochet, but it's only 1 row below as we only have 1, but after this it will always be made 2 rows below the row you are working on. A little trick I learned here after the triple, was to count from the last stitch of the row and back to where I now wanted to do the dc dec over 3 st's,  starting with the 7th, 6th and 5th st's, because that middle stitch can get mixed up with that count, so that way made it easy peasy!
Picture 20 tells us that we have now made enough rows to do our front post triple in the middle st of 2 rows below, yay, finally.
The crochet feather is beginning to look more like a feather now.

TO BE CONTINUED!







Wednesday, December 6, 2017

The Constructive Stocking





Sometimes we need to see something in pieces to understand the construction process. 
This is what I have tried to do within these pictures, I have also included a written pattern too. 
The sock begins from the top band, works down to the heel, the heel is made, works out to the toe, then the toe part is made.
I'm giving you instructions for a stitch count of 24 and rounds of sc and double crochet. This will also work with the half double crochet stitch, combined with the single crochet and other amounts of stitch counts that can easily be dividable.





 TOE DECREASES


Materials:
yarn of your choice and hook to suit the yarn
Stitches used: US terms
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sc 2 tog = a decrease that is single crochet 2 sc's together
sc inc = single crochet increase = work 2 sc's into same st
Experience = beginner+

THE CUFF
To begin, ch 24, sl st to form a ring
Round 1. ch 1, work 1 sc in each ch (24 sc) do not join these rounds
Rounds 2 to 6, work 1 sc in each sc, on final round sl st to join and finish off yarn.
Option 2: work a total of 12 rounds, fold in half so the beginning round is kissing the end round
THE LEG PART
Round 1. Attach new yarn to the cuff, ch 3, work 1 dc in each sc, sl st to join round (1 x ch 3 and 23 dc)
Round 2 to 6. ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc to end, sl st to join. Last round finish off yarn.
THE HEEL. find the last dc you made in row 6 of the leg, counting down and to your right, st 5, st 4, st 3, st 2, st 1 is where you join in your new yarn with a sl st.
Row 1. ch 1, work 1 sc in same st as join, work 1 sc into the next 5 dc, into the top of the ch 3 and into the next 5 dc, ch 1 and turn (12 sc)
DECREASES:
Row 2. work the first 2 sc's together, work a sc into each sc until you reach the last 2 sc's of the row, work the last 2 sc's together ch 1 and turn (10 sc) repeat row 2 until you have 2 st's remaining
Increases:
Row 1. work 2 sc's into the first sc and work 2 sc's into the last sc, ch 1 and turn (4 sc)
Row 2 and onward. continue working 2 sc's in the beginning and end sc's until you have 12 sc's again. Next row, work 1 sc in each sc and break off yarn leaving a long tail, fold heel inside out and sew each heel edge together, fold heel right way out to begin next step.
MAKING THE FOOT PART: join yarn into a sc of the heel with a sl st
In the picture below, there is a space circled, if you include this as a dc over 2 spaces/or dc 2 tog in the next round 1 on both sides, it will form a lovely angel to your sock

Round 1. ch 3, work 1 dc into each sc and dc of the round, sl st to join (1 x ch 3 and 23 dc)
Round 2 to 4. ch 3, work 1 dc in each st of the round, break off yarn, join in new yarn where you just finished off
MAKING THE TOE
Round 1. ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, sl st to join (24 sc)
Round 2. ch 1, *work 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (20 sc)
Round 3. ch 1, *work 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (16 sc)
Round 4. ch 1, *work 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (12 sc)
Round 5. ch 1, *work 1 sc into the next 1 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (8 sc)
Round 6. ch 1, sc 2 tog to end (4 sc), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew toe closed. 
Sew in all loose ends and get ready to make another one.
I believe if you made a matching pair, they can be worn and not just used as a Christmas stocking.



Monday, November 27, 2017

Last Minute Ear Warmer/Headband





CROCHET EAR WARMER/HEAD BAND
Perfect project for that last minute gift that works up quick!
My last minute gift to you! 




Materials Used:
10 ply/Worsted Weight approx 40 gm's/1.41 ounces
4mm/G Hook
Sewing needle and scissors


Stitches used: US terms
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
Special st's used:
V st = (dc, ch, 2 dc) in same stitch

To begin: chain 16
Row 1. work 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each chain across (15 hdc)
Rows 2 to 14, ch 1, work 1 hdc into each hdc to end, turn (15 hdc, 14 rows made)


Working on first braid using 5 st's only
when making the ch 1 at the beginning of each row, make it loose/high
(you can ch 1 and turn or turn and ch 1 your choice)

Row 15. ch 1, work 1 dc in 1st hdc, skip 1 hdc, work a V st in next hdc, skip 1 hdc, work 1 dc in next hdc, turn (1dc, 1V and 1dc)

please ensure you work your 1st dc into the top of the dc loops and not the chain 1.

Row 16 to 25. ch 1, work 1 dc into the 1st dc, work a V st into the chain 2 space of the V st, work 1 dc into the last dc of the row, turn
(you will have, 1 dc a V st and another dc)

Second braid:
Break off yarn and join to the 6th hdc of row 14 and repeat rows 15 to 25

Third braid:
Break off yarn and join to the 11th hdc of row 14 and repeat rows 15 to 25, break off yarn


Make 1 briad with your 3 length's.
Hold or pin your braids in place and make a row across the top of the 3 braids as per instructions in row 26 below.

Attach yarn
Row 26.
ch 1, *work 1 hdc into first dc, work 1 hdc into the 1st dc of the V st, work 1 hdc into the ch 2 space, work 1 hdc into each of the next 2 dc's*, repeat from *to* for the next 2 braids (15 hdc) ch 1 and turn



Row 27. ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st across, turn
for a small size work 7 more rows of row 27.
for a medium size work 9 more rows of row 27.
for a large size work 11 more rows of row 27.






To join, with the right side facing you, fold in half and line up the end stitches, join by either whip stitching, sl st loosely or sc across, using the stitches from the beginning chain row and the back loops only of the last row of hdc's made. Sew in all loose ends and wear.



Saturday, October 7, 2017

Cats Pop Over Tunic Crochet Top




"Cats Pop Over Tunic"


Sometimes a long sleeve shirt is just not warm enough to wear around the house or for a quick trip to the shops.
So I decided to make a simple throw over tunic style top. I had purchased some caron cakes in various tones and chose to use the bumbleberry style to make my top. I'm so glad I chose this yarn as it has a nice drape to it.

The level of difficulty in making this tunic can be overcome by either learning a new technique or using an alternative stitch, the pattern begins with a foundation row of double crochets, the alternative to this is to chain the amount of chains needed, then make a double crochet into each of those chains, the foundation row of dc's gives the Tunic a firmer starting edge, thus eliminating the need for a row of ribbing. The pattern also uses a standing double crochet at the beginning of the row. the alternative to this is a chain of 3. (see stitches used).
Size: AU 16, 18 and 20 adult instructions given, tunic can be made larger or smaller by adding or subtracting stitches at both edges of the tunic.

  
Materials needed: 
Caron cakes 200 gm balls x 3
Alternate yarn weight. US Worsted AU 10 ply
Crochet hook 5 mm (US H-8)

Stitches Used: US terminology
ch = chain
dc foundation = double crochet foundation row
(dc foundation row can be omitted with a row of chains then dc's made into that chain)
dc = double crochet
st dc = standing double crochet
(st dc can be omitted with a ch 3)
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet

Special Stitches Instruction:
dbl clust = cluster, ch 2, cluster
A cluster is a group of half worked double crochets (usually 3) then all 3 are finished off together   


Cluster explanation: yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops, ( 2 loops on hook) yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (4 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops,  (3 loops on hook) yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (5 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook) yarn over hook and draw through all 4 loops on hook = cluster made


The double clusters are purposely placed within the design for size alteration and a center split for the neck opening, at this point the double cluster is split into 2, which becomes a single cluster that travels along each side of the neck opening, it's subtle but nice.

When making clothing items, it is best to grab a piece of clothing, lay it on a flat surface, then put the garment you are making over it and check for correct sizing, most times near enough is going to be good enough as our garment will be loose, which in turn will allow us to wear extra clothing underneath. 

***If your not using the dc foundation row, ch 72, work your first dc into the 4th ch from your hook and make 1 dc into each of the chains (1 x ch 3 and 69 dc for a total count of 70 st's)
For those of you who are not going to use a standing dc at the beginning of the row, make a ch 3, then follow pattern***

Lets Begin:Make 2 pieces, 1 for the front and 1 for the back of the garment.
Make a dc foundation row of 70 dc

Row 1. st dc into first dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 21 dc's, skip 1 dc, work a double cluster into next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, skip 1 dc, work 1 double cluster into the next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, skip 1 dc, work 1 double cluster into the next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 23 dc's, turn

**To simplify things, on every row, we work 1 dc into a dc and a double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster all the way up to the neck opening**

Row 2. st dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 22 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster (be careful not to work any st's into the actual cluster), work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 22 dc's, turn

Row 3. st dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 21 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster (be careful not to work any st's into the actual cluster), work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 23 dc's, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows (includes foundation row), this is a generous length, I would have preferred mine a couple of rows shorter.

Divide for the neck opening:
Row 1. Continue pattern up to the center double cluster, work a cluster into the top of the cluster st, turn
Row 2. Ch 3, work a 2 dc cluster in the cluster st, continue pattern to end of row, turn

Repeat the previous 2 rows 5 times (12 rows in total), break off yarn and continue to the other side of the neck opening.

Row 1. make a sl st into the top of the cluster st, chain 3 and make a 2 dc cluster in the cluster st, continue with pattern to end of row, turn

Row 2. continue pattern to center cluster and make a cluster in the top of the cluster st, turn

Continue pattern sequence for a total of 12 rows, both sides of neck opening are now completed.
Join each shoulder seam together, they can be sewed or crocheted together, your choice.


The tunic sides can be joined together now or you can add a decorative edge then sew or crochet that together.
Mark sides approx 3 to 5 rows down from the neck opening and sew or crochet sides together.

Making the side edge: working from the bottom edge and the sides of each row, make a sl st into the first rows edge and ch 3, make a dc into the same row, work 2 dc's in the side st of every row.
Second row of sides edge:
Chain 3 and turn, work a *fpdc around next dc, work a bpdc around next dc* repeat from *to* until 1 stitch is remaining and make a dc in that one.

You can now sl st your sides together or sew them together. Remember to end your side joining approx 3 (medium  size arms) to 5 (larger size arms) rows below the neck opening. 
You could also add buttons for closing the sides instead of sewing or crocheting them together. 


Now to tidy up the neck opening and make the neck edging:


Join yarn to a shoulder seam with a sl st and ch 3, as per the sides, work 2 dc around the stitch edge of each row until you come to one row before center of neck opening, work a 3 dc cluster stitch that begins in the row before the center, the second part of the cluster is worked into the ch 2 space of the double cluster and work the final st of the cluster in the row above the chain 2 space then finish off the cluster stitch (you just made a V in the center of the neck opening), continue working 2 dc around the stitch edge of each row until you come to the joining seam and work 1 dc into the seam, repeat for the other side of your tunic "including the V in the center of the neck opening. Sew in ends and now you can pop it on!






Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cathy Wood
2017.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it
 
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