Wednesday, December 13, 2017

THE FEATHER IN DISGUISE






 This feather is indeed in disguise.
Behind the feathered mask lays the
CHEVRON  STITCH
Yes folks the chevron stitch is the makings of this fine feathered feather.
 And the back bone/spine of the feather is a triple crochet that is made 2 rows below the row you are working on and is worked into the front post of that stitch, giving the over all effect of the rachis part of the feather. There is just 1 more little trick in the making of this crochet feather and that is by the time you get to the second row of dc's you work them into the back loop of the dc st. Oh yeah, of course there is the shaping of the tip of the feather, but that's just increasing less st's over a few rows and your done.
Lets make this crocheted feather together by following some simple picture tutorials.
Every picture tells a story right?
These are almost the same as a story, but in the form of an easy to follow along picture pattern!

 The fun begins with chains and slip st's
Next we begin the chevron pattern, we need an extra ch 3, that counts as the 1st dc of this row, then increase in the 4th ch from the hook by adding 2 more dc's, make 3 dc's over the next 3 ch's, then dc 3 ch's together for the decrease.
The first part of the spine will be just a dc into the top sl st, when you have more rows you'll do the front post triple crochet instead.
The you basically repeat what you just did in the reverse order for this side.
Finish off this row with the increase of 3 dc's into the last ch, turn.
EVERY STITCH MADE (apart from the center st) IS NOW
WORKED INTO THE BACK LOOPS ONLY.
Chain up 3 and work an increase of 2 dc's into the 1st dc of this row. 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc's, then the decrease again, dc dec the next 3 st's together.
Now for our first front post triple crochet, but it's only 1 row below as we only have 1, but after this it will always be made 2 rows below the row you are working on. A little trick I learned here after the triple, was to count from the last stitch of the row and back to where I now wanted to do the dc dec over 3 st's,  starting with the 7th, 6th and 5th st's, because that middle stitch can get mixed up with that count, so that way made it easy peasy!
Picture 20 tells us that we have now made enough rows to do our front post triple in the middle st of 2 rows below, yay, finally.
The crochet feather is beginning to look more like a feather now.

TO BE CONTINUED!







Wednesday, December 6, 2017

The Constructive Stocking





Sometimes we need to see something in pieces to understand the construction process. 
This is what I have tried to do within these pictures, I have also included a written pattern too. 
The sock begins from the top band, works down to the heel, the heel is made, works out to the toe, then the toe part is made.
I'm giving you instructions for a stitch count of 24 and rounds of sc and double crochet. This will also work with the half double crochet stitch, combined with the single crochet and other amounts of stitch counts that can easily be dividable.





 TOE DECREASES


Materials:
yarn of your choice and hook to suit the yarn
Stitches used: US terms
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sc 2 tog = a decrease that is single crochet 2 sc's together
sc inc = single crochet increase = work 2 sc's into same st
Experience = beginner+

THE CUFF
To begin, ch 24, sl st to form a ring
Round 1. ch 1, work 1 sc in each ch (24 sc) do not join these rounds
Rounds 2 to 6, work 1 sc in each sc, on final round sl st to join and finish off yarn.
Option 2: work a total of 12 rounds, fold in half so the beginning round is kissing the end round
THE LEG PART
Round 1. Attach new yarn to the cuff, ch 3, work 1 dc in each sc, sl st to join round (1 x ch 3 and 23 dc)
Round 2 to 6. ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc to end, sl st to join. Last round finish off yarn.
THE HEEL. find the last dc you made in row 6 of the leg, counting down and to your right, st 5, st 4, st 3, st 2, st 1 is where you join in your new yarn with a sl st.
Row 1. ch 1, work 1 sc in same st as join, work 1 sc into the next 5 dc, into the top of the ch 3 and into the next 5 dc, ch 1 and turn (12 sc)
DECREASES:
Row 2. work the first 2 sc's together, work a sc into each sc until you reach the last 2 sc's of the row, work the last 2 sc's together ch 1 and turn (10 sc) repeat row 2 until you have 2 st's remaining
Increases:
Row 1. work 2 sc's into the first sc and work 2 sc's into the last sc, ch 1 and turn (4 sc)
Row 2 and onward. continue working 2 sc's in the beginning and end sc's until you have 12 sc's again. Next row, work 1 sc in each sc and break off yarn leaving a long tail, fold heel inside out and sew each heel edge together, fold heel right way out to begin next step.
MAKING THE FOOT PART: join yarn into a sc of the heel with a sl st
In the picture below, there is a space circled, if you include this as a dc over 2 spaces/or dc 2 tog in the next round 1 on both sides, it will form a lovely angel to your sock

Round 1. ch 3, work 1 dc into each sc and dc of the round, sl st to join (1 x ch 3 and 23 dc)
Round 2 to 4. ch 3, work 1 dc in each st of the round, break off yarn, join in new yarn where you just finished off
MAKING THE TOE
Round 1. ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, sl st to join (24 sc)
Round 2. ch 1, *work 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (20 sc)
Round 3. ch 1, *work 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (16 sc)
Round 4. ch 1, *work 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (12 sc)
Round 5. ch 1, *work 1 sc into the next 1 sc, work the next 2 sc's tog (dec made)*, repeat from *to* to end (8 sc)
Round 6. ch 1, sc 2 tog to end (4 sc), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew toe closed. 
Sew in all loose ends and get ready to make another one.
I believe if you made a matching pair, they can be worn and not just used as a Christmas stocking.